Art Hanging Guide

Professional techniques for hanging artwork, from single pieces to stunning gallery walls.

Last updated: 10 June 2026

The Eye Level Rule

The most important principle in art hanging: the centre of your artwork should be at eye level. But whose eye level? The standard used by galleries and museums worldwide is approximately 1450-1550mm (57-61 inches) from the floor to the centre of the artwork.

1530mm Eye level
Pro tip: In rooms where people are usually seated (like living rooms or dining rooms), you may want to lower artwork slightly — around 1400mm — so it's at seated eye level.
Art gallery interior with paintings displayed at eye level

Hanging a Single Artwork

For a single piece, the process is straightforward once you know the formula:

1

Measure your frame height

Get the total height of your framed artwork in millimetres.

2

Calculate the centre point

Divide the frame height by 2. This tells you where the centre of your artwork sits relative to its top.

3

Measure the hook drop

Find the distance from the top of the frame to where the wire or hardware contacts the hook. Learn how to measure hook drop.

4

Calculate hook height

Hook height = Eye level + (Frame height ÷ 2) - Hook drop

Example: 1530mm + (600mm ÷ 2) - 50mm = 1780mm from the floor.

Use Our Calculator

Skip the maths — our calculator does all this automatically. Just enter your measurements and get precise hook placement.

Creating Gallery Walls

A gallery wall is a curated arrangement of multiple artworks. Click each layout style below to learn when to use it and get measuring tips:

Grid Layout

Uniform & Symmetrical

Equal-sized frames in rows and columns

Click for details

Salon Style

Eclectic & Dynamic

Mixed sizes arranged organically

Click for details

Row Layout

Linear & Clean

Horizontal alignment along centre line

Click for details

Symmetrical

Balanced & Formal

Mirrored arrangement around centre

Click for details

Grid Layout

Best Used For

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Measuring Tips

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Planning tip: Before putting holes in the wall, lay out your arrangement on the floor or trace your frames onto paper and tape them to the wall. This lets you experiment with spacing and composition.
Gallery wall displaying multiple artworks in a curated arrangement

Hanging Art Above Furniture

When hanging above a sofa, console, or bed, the relationship between the art and furniture matters more than eye level alone.

Distance above furniture
150-250mm (6-10")
Art width relative to furniture
2/3 to 3/4 of furniture width
Above a sofa
200mm (8") gap typical
Above a bed headboard
150-200mm (6-8") gap
150-250mm 2/3 to 3/4 of sofa width
Too High

Art that floats high above furniture looks disconnected and awkward. Keep it close enough to feel like a unified composition.

Too Small

A tiny piece above a large sofa looks out of scale. Choose artwork that's substantial enough to anchor the space.

Spacing Guidelines

Consistent spacing between frames creates visual harmony. Here are the standard recommendations:

Between frames (gallery wall)
50-100mm (2-4")
Grid layout spacing
50-75mm (2-3") uniform
Salon style (minimum)
40-50mm (1.5-2")
Large frames (over 60cm)
75-100mm (3-4") between
Consistency is key: Whatever spacing you choose, keep it uniform throughout your arrangement. This creates cohesion even with varied frame sizes.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Hanging too high

The most common mistake. Art that's too high feels disconnected from the room. Remember: centre at eye level, not top at eye level.

Ignoring the furniture relationship

Art above furniture should feel connected to it. Too far apart and they look like strangers in the same room.

Inconsistent spacing

Random gaps between frames make a gallery wall look chaotic rather than curated. Plan your spacing before you start.

Wrong scale for the wall

A small frame on a large empty wall looks lost. Consider grouping smaller pieces or choosing a larger statement piece.

Not accounting for hook drop

Forgetting to measure hook drop means your frame ends up higher than intended. Always measure where the wire catches the hook.

Lighting What You Hang

Placement and lighting are decided together in galleries, and the same thinking improves a living room. Side light from a window rakes across textured work (oils, textiles) beautifully in the morning and washes it out by afternoon; glass-fronted frames opposite windows become mirrors. Before committing to a wall, hold the piece up at different times of day. The practical rules: avoid hanging glazed work directly opposite large windows, keep original works on paper out of direct sun entirely (UV fades pigment in months, not years), and if you light art deliberately, aim for the light to strike the piece at about 30 degrees from vertical — steep enough to avoid glare in viewers' eyes, shallow enough to avoid deep frame shadows.

North-facing walls (in the northern hemisphere) get the most stable, diffuse light all day — which is why artists' studios traditionally face north, and why your best piece deserves a north wall if you have one.

Renter-Friendly Hanging

No-drill options have improved enormously, but each has a real limit worth respecting. Adhesive strips (Command and similar) hold light frames well on smooth painted walls — follow the rated weight per pair honestly, double up generously, and press for the full recommended time. They fail on textured walls, wallpaper, and fresh paint (wait a fortnight after painting). Spring-tension picture rail hooks are the best option in period rentals that still have rails: zero damage, fully adjustable height, and they handle serious weight. For heavier pieces with a landlord's blessing, one neat screw hole filled on departure does less visible damage than four failed adhesive patches that pulled paint.

Whatever the method, the placement maths is unchanged — an adhesive hook has a hook drop like any other hardware, and our calculator doesn't care what the hook is made of.

Ready to Hang Your Art?

Use our calculator to get precise hook placement measurements for any artwork arrangement.

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